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Friday, November 25, 2011

Our recent Trials

So what did you all do when the storms hit and your power failed.. Were you prepared?

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Monday, September 26, 2011

Natural Home & Garden Magazine

Natural Home & Garden Magazine

How to Create a Zero-Waste Kitchen

September/October 2011
http://www.naturalhomeandgarden.com/recycling/how-to-create-a-zero-waste-kitchen.aspx

By Letitia L. Star
kitchen shelving
Enlarge Image
Photo By Deborah Whitlaw Llewellyn

Stroll into The Kitchen, a community bistro located in the heart of Boulder, Colorado, and you’re in for a culinary treat—rustic food that’s in-season, locally grown and prepared over an open fire. But what’s also noteworthy is that all waste is either recycled or composted, no small feat for a popular eatery. “We moved to zero waste seven years ago and we strive to improve every day,” says Kimbal Musk, chef-owner of The Kitchen (thekitchencafe.com). “Our oils are recycled as biodiesel, and composted foods go to our local farms,” he says. “We also were the first wind-powered restaurant in Colorado, which we see as another form of zero waste.”

Anyone interested in reducing waste and saving money can learn from The Kitchen and others dedicated to making their operations zero-waste, meaning they send nothing to the landfill. Here’s how a few small, easy changes can minimize your footprint while potentially saving you some cash.

Rethink Waste

Planning well is the first step toward a waste-free kitchen. Consider all of the waste your kitchen produces—trash, food waste, water waste—and how you can process it on-site. “Zero-waste is not only a physical kitchen, but a mindset,” says Adela Szpira-Stopka, a green-designated broker with @properties, a Chicago real estate company. “Given that most home waste originates in the kitchen, a green home should definitely include a zero-waste kitchen.”

Musk says it’s not difficult to become conscious of, then reduce, kitchen waste. “With simple new habits you can end up with a very small amount of true landfill garbage, which may mean reduced costs on your garbage bill,” he says. “Home kitchens should use a three-unit system: one container for compost, one for recycling and one smaller unit for nonrecyclable items such as plastic wrap.”

Coffee grounds, onion peels, carrot tops, egg shells and other non-meat food waste can go into a countertop crock, then on to a compost pile in your yard. Or use vermicompost bins, in which worms turn food waste into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. For a list of compostables, and instructions and tips on making compost, read the article "Compost at Home: Tips for Composting and Vermicomposting."

Trash Talk

Today most trash is recyclable, so hopefully your recycle bins will be much fuller than your nonrecyclable bin. As you move forward, examine the items that end up in the nonrecyclable bin. You will probably notice a few specific things that always reappear—most likely food and product packaging. Can you eliminate these items or replace them with alternatives? Perhaps you could rid yourself of plastic wrap by purchasing several reusable glass storage containers with lids.

Buying in bulk can also reduce waste: Choose the largest container of household essentials such as dish soap, and maximize your use of bulk bins. Recycling the cardboard box your spaghetti came in is great, but you could eliminate it altogether by buying pasta out of your grocer’s bin and carrying it home in a reusable organic cotton bag. Blue Lotus makes organic cotton grain and produce bags that double as storage bags that help keep produce fresh.

If you often find your plastic laundry detergent bottle in the landfill-bound bin, consider completely eliminating that waste by making your own. Find recipes for washing powder, stain spray and brightener.

Eliminating disposables is another easy way toreduce kitchen waste. Make the choice to rid your home of paper towels and napkins, plastic bags and wraps, and disposable utensils. Many companies offer reusable, lightweight, travel-ready utensils made from bamboo or recycled materials. Choose glass or metal food-storage containers with lids (reused glass jars work great). Turn old sheets or clothes into rags, or buy biodegradable, reusable cleaning cloths, sponges and scouring pads.

Water Log

Water is used heavily in the kitchen. Though it may not be possible to completely eliminate water waste, you can do a lot to conserve water in the kitchen. Start with efficient appliances, including low-flow faucets (or faucet aerators) and high-efficiency dishwashers. Modern dishwashers eliminate water waste because they don’t require you to rinse dishes before putting them in the machine. Composting saves the water you would otherwise use to wash food down the disposal. You could also come up with clever ways to reuse kitchen water such as hanging a dish-drying rack above windowsill plants.

You might consider a graywater system, which is great for reusing household water as landscape irrigation; unfortunately, because the kitchen is often the site of heavy-duty cleaning products and unsafe bacteria from foods such as raw meat, most experts recommend using water from bathroom sinks, tubs, showers and clothes washing machines, rather than from kitchen sinks and dishwashers.

Waste Reduction Tips

Several steps can reduce the amount of trash, energy and water waste you create.

•End food waste. Enliven leftover food with herbs and spices, or turn it into a new dish. “Never throw out tasty food scraps that could be used for soups or stews,” Musk says. “My favorite is roast chicken leftovers, which make the best chicken noodle soup you’ve ever tasted.” Prevent waste by learning more about food spoilage rates at stilltasty.com. For tips on shopping wisely to reduce food waste and helping food last longer, visit naturalhomeandgarden.com/make-food-last.

• Stop leaks. To spot a slow-dripping leaky kitchen faucet, check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If it changed, you’ve got a leak! Find other water-reduction tips.

• Enhance fridge efficiency. To reduce your refrigerator’s electricity demands, create an organizational diagram and post it on the door. This saves time rummaging around with the door open and makes it easy to see what you’re out of before a trip to the store. If you can see just fine without it, unscrew the light bulb. And make sure your fridge door fits tightly—a good way to test this is to put a dollar inside the door. If you can pull it out without opening the door, you need to replace your seals. A full fridge changes temperature less easily than an empty one; increase your fridge’s interior mass by placing reusable frozen cold packs inside.

• Choose hand-operated. Consider hand-operated kitchen tools that don’t need electricity (or counter space), such as stainless steel hand graters, whisks, glass citrus juicers and manual egg beaters.

• Donate excess. Drop off unused cookware, dishware, glassware and appliances to secondhand stores or homeless shelters: Salvation Army, Homeless Shelter Directory. Recycle your old, second fridge or freezer. Some electricity suppliers offer rebates to customers who recycle their old clunkers and cut their utility bills. Check to see if your local utility offers such a program.

• Stock recycled. Buy kitchen items that already recycled landfill waste before they got to you. Ten Thousand Villages sells fair-trade, handcrafted home items made by artisan communities around the world. Look for recycled paper tableware, floor mats made from flip flops, baskets made from snack bags, bottle openers made out of bicycle chains and much more.

Letitia L. Star is a healthy-living writer and photographer who has written more than 1,000 articles, including many on green living, healthy eating and organic gardening.

New Trend: Municipal Composting

If you don’t have composting space, look for municipal compost programs by searching online for “composting program” and your city name. Some municipal programs offer kitchen pails, green bins and free pick-up. Helpful websites:

• Chicago: Chicago Recycling Coalition

• Denver: Compost Collection Pilot Program

• New York

• San Francisco: Recology



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Monday, June 20, 2011

ooops

ooops

coming up APN Tristate Campout and meet up

Nickerson Park Family Campground
the 24th thru the 26th on june.. come join the fun.. $6 a night per camper..from friday to sunday at 10 am..
Going to be a Load of fun!!



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Sunday, May 22, 2011

Finding Edible Wild Fruits in the Country

Finding Edible Wild Fruits in the Country


It is almost that time again..This year I am going to concentrate on foraging for fruits!

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Thursday, May 19, 2011

America 2011

http://endoftheamericandream.com/archives/america-2011
What kind of place is America in 2011? Sadly, it is one giant sea of conformity. If you traveled across the United States 40 or 50 years ago, you would encounter a vast array of cultures and you would meet a wonderful mix of people. But today America is slowly but surely becoming standardized. It seems like wherever you go you will find a Wal-Mart and a McDonald's. Thanks to Hollywood and the mass media, people all over the country dress the same and look the same and talk the same. Sure there are various subcultures out there, but even many of those subcultures are virtually the same on one coast as they are on the other. The things that gave flavor to our local communities are dying off in favor of greater conformity and greater profit. Today, most retail stores and most restaurants are corporate owned. Most small businesses that attempt to go up against the Wal-Marts, the Targets, the Burger Kings or the Home Depots of the world have already been stomped out of existence or are in the process of being stomped out of existence. Eventually, if we are not careful, corporate conformity is going to dominate everything from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Some may view this as "progress", but is this really what the American Dream is supposed to be all about? Is this really the "America" that we want to pass down to future generations?

Our society has become so homogenized that we don't really question it anymore. We all watch American Idol, we all buy the same boring looking cars we see advertised on television and we all buy the same mass-produced corporate products down at Costco.

For many Americans, doing something "exotic" means going out to Applebee's on Friday night.

If you are under 40 years of age and you have never been out of the country you should really make it a point to do that. Today there are millions upon millions of young Americans that have no idea what "another culture" even looks like. All they know is how America does things and they have been taught that the American way of doing things is always the best.

Sadly, sometimes we think our way is so superior that it should be forced upon the rest of the world.

When this nation was founded, our founding fathers were extremely suspicious of large concentrations of power. Corporations did not dominate early America. Instead, millions of individuals and small businesses worked together to make this country great. Back in those days a "family store" could be started without fear that a corporate giant like Wal-Mart would come waltzing in to crush it.

When Wal-Marts started to spread across the United States, almost everyone loved them. The prices were lower, the selection was much greater and Wal-Mart brought jobs to the community.

When I would visit family or friends they would always excitedly talk about the new Wal-Mart that was going up somewhere nearby. They saw Wal-Mart as a sign of progress and something that would make their lives better.

Unfortunately, we now know that all of that corporate conformity comes at a very high price.

When Wal-Mart moves into a community, often dozens of local businesses can't compete and are forced to close.

Wal-Mart does bring jobs, but they are really crappy jobs. A very, very small percentage of Wal-Mart jobs will even come close to enabling someone to support a family.

But Wal-Mart is making a ton of money. So where does all of that money go?

It goes out of the local community and into the pockets of the Wal-Mart shareholders.

Wal-Mart is like a giant vacuum cleaner. It sucks the wealth out of our local communities and it transfers it into the hands of the very wealthy.

But don't all of the products sold at Wal-Mart support American businesses and American jobs?

No.

Just go into a Wal-Mart some time and start picking up products. You will notice that the vast majority of them are made outside of the United States.

Americans love to buy stuff made in China. And the big corporations love that because they are more than happy to pay slave labor wages to workers in places like China and India.

But I don't want to just pick on Wal-Mart. The vast majority of our retail establishments are now owned by huge corporations. They all crush small businesses and they all suck wealth out of our local communities.

Most of us have enjoyed the "low, low prices" that the mega-corporations have brought in, but as inflation has gone up faster than our wages, large numbers of Americans have had to go into debt in order to enjoy all of these cheap products.

Today, what the average American family owes is equivalent to 136% of what an average American family makes each year.

We have a national addiction to debt. To the corporations and the banks we are viewed as "consumers" and the goal is to drain as much money out of us as possible. They want us to be completely dependent on them so that we will be snared in the trap of "consumerism" forever.

The fact that corporations have become so dominant in our society is a huge reason why wealth has become so concentrated at the top. Today, the bottom 50 percent of all Americans own just 2.5% of the wealth. In a true capitalist society this would not happen because individuals and small businesses would be able to compete fairly in the marketplace and would be thriving.

But unfortunately, our system greatly favors giant corporations today. In fact, what we have in our country today is much more aptly called "corporatism" rather than "capitalism". The vast majority of Americans work for either a giant corporation or for the government. We even teach our children that they should go to college and study hard so that they can "get a job" rather than telling them that they should endeavor to "start a business" someday.

If nothing changes, wealth and power will continue to become even more concentrated in the hands of the few. Meanwhile, America will just continue to become a giant sea of corporate conformity and a very boring place.

"America 2011" is not nearly as interesting as America was 50 years ago. We are becoming defined by our greedy corporate overlords. We just blindly conform and we let others do our thinking for us.

If our founding fathers could see us today, they would be absolutely horrified.


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Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Bee Gardens: Flowers, Fruits and Herbs for a Bee-Friendly Habitat - Modern Homesteading - MOTHER EARTH NEWS

Bee Gardens: Flowers, Fruits and Herbs for a Bee-Friendly Habitat - Modern Homesteading - MOTHER EARTH NEWS




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You can provide honeybees with year-round nourishment and attract other wildlife to your outdoor space — even in the city! — by planting flowers, fruits, herbs and more that are rich in nectar and pollen. From lavender and tulips to raspberry bushes and tomatoes, find out which plants provide food for bees early and late in the year, get a year-round planting plan of bee-friendly plants, and check out a full list of suggested flowers to create your own bee oasis. A garden or patch devoted to plants that are attractive to bees can be a source of great pleasure for any beekeeper or nature lover, as much for the beauty of the flora as for the activity of the bees.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Prayer's Power Trumps Positive Thinking - cityhomesteader@gmail.com

Prayer's Power Trumps Positive Thinking
Rebecca Hagelin

Two studies caught my eye this week.

One, released by the American Physical Society, presented data suggesting that religion is headed for “extinction” in nine Western countries: Canada, Ireland, Austria, the Czech Republic, Finland, Australia, New Zealand, the Netherlands and Switzerland.

The scientists’ bold claims were based on a statistical model that tracked, over the past 100 years, the increasing population in those countries that claimed affiliation with “no religion.” Projecting those numbers forward, they believe that “religion will be driven toward extinction,” because people will discover that “the perceived utility of not adhering is greater than the utility of adhering” to a belief in God.

Utility. It’s a sad commentary on modern society that God must prove himself “useful” according to our standards or we’ll box religion up and send it to collect dust in some museum.

But before they proclaim the end of religion, perhaps these scientists ought to check in with their peers. The second study released last week shows that prayer--a fundamentally religious activity--produces social benefits by reducing anger and aggression.

Imagine that. It’s useful.

The groundbreaking study (the first to focus on the connection between prayer and anger) showed that prayer reduces anger and calms aggression in the person who prays. According to the study’s co-author, Ohio State Professor Brad Bushman, "We found that prayer really can help people cope with their anger.” Prayer produced measurable differences in the people who prayed, compared to a similar group who merely thought good thoughts.

But even scientific proof of the power of prayer cannot turn a skeptic into a believer.

Because they cannot prove exactly why prayer reduced the anger and aggression of those who prayed, scientists struggle to find an explanation that doesn’t presume the reality of God. Bushman suggested that prayer “probably…[helped] them change how they view the events that angered them and helping them take it less personally." Shouldn’t peaceful “thoughts” be able to do that?

What Bushman is missing is that prayer is different because it’s a communication with a very real Someone—Someone we need, a person named God, who can do anything.

Unfortunately, this latest prayer study fits a growing pattern. As social scientists pursue greater understanding of the human person, they can’t ignore the power of prayer and faith in people’s lives. So they study it. But even as their own studies prove the benefits of prayer and religious faith, these same researchers cast about trying to explain away the reality of divine intervention—to “psychologize” the power of God.

How to Save Your Family By Affirming Your Family’s Dependence on God

What scientists miss—and what our culture increasingly denies—is that God is real. He’s a person who loves and cares for us. Our concerns are his concerns, right down to the anger we feel or the disasters and triumphs of our day. He cares whether those He loves find new jobs, perform well in a school play, or survive the next deployment to Afghanistan. He cares about his children’s smallest sniffle just as much as a life-threatening cancer.

Prayer “works” because God hears us and responds in love. God—not positive psychology and the power of “good thoughts”—can change our hearts and transform our lives.

But as our culture becomes ever more technical, it’s also becoming relentlessly secular. Science and technology rank higher than God, it seems.

It’s time to reaffirm to our children our belief in the supremacy of God and our dependence on God, our Creator. In practical terms, it’s time to turn our hearts to Him in prayer.

After all, now we know… prayer beats positive thinking any day.


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Wednesday, April 6, 2011

The Best Homemade Tomato Cages - Organic Gardening - MOTHER EARTH NEWS

The Best Homemade Tomato Cages - Organic Gardening - MOTHER EARTH NEWS

The Best Homemade Tomato Cages

By Jennifer Kongs

You’ll enjoy a bigger tomato harvest if you use stakes or tomato cages to help your plants grow vertically, saving space in the garden while keeping fruits off the ground, preventing rot. Store-bought tomato cages tend to be flimsy and too small. For a sturdier option, consider building your own. We think these four plans are especially good choices for creating durable, low-cost tomato cages. Find the best fit for your garden and start building! (The cost estimates for each design are based on current prices from Lowe’s and Tractor Supply Co.)
Livestock Panel Trellis

Rigid metal livestock panels (sold at farm stores) make a strong, durable trellis. Simply stand up the panels and attach them to steel T-posts, and you’re on your way to your own wall of tomatoes (see illustration). Livestock panels typically come in 16-foot lengths, but with a pair of bolt cutters or a hacksaw, you can cut them to whatever length you want.

As the tomatoes grow, weave the plants between the openings of the panel for better support. You can use the panels for other crops, including beans, cucumbers and peas. You can even bend the panels to make a trellised archway, which you can cover with plastic for use as a cheap greenhouse or livestock shelter.

Supplies:

* One 16-foot livestock panel
* Steel T-posts (use one for about every 4 to 6 feet of panel)

Estimated cost: about $2 per tomato plant (assumes four T-posts, plus $20 for a 16-foot panel, with 18 tomato plants spaced 2 feet apart on both sides)

Complete instructions: See Vertical Gardening Techniques for Maximum Returns.
Folding Wooden Tomato Cages

These tall, wooden tomato cages (see illustration) add a beautiful vertical accent to your garden and are strong enough to support a bumper tomato crop. They also work well with other vining crops. To construct a cage, build two tomato “ladders,” with three rungs and a brace to stabilize the sides against strong winds. Connect the two ladders at the top with a piece of scrap wood, which you can easily remove to fold the ladders for storage at the end of the season.

Supplies:

* Six 1-by-3-inch wooden pieces measuring about 8 feet long
* One 8-inch 2-by-4
* Two 3-inch deck screws
* About 30 1 1⁄2-inch galvanized deck screws

Estimated cost: about $20 per cage (less if you use recycled materials , or maybe saplings)

Complete instructions: See Woody’s Folding Tomato Cages.
Wire Mesh Tomato Cages

Constructing cages from 4- or 5-foot-wide concrete reinforcing wire (see illustration) is quick and simple — and the materials are cheap, which makes these cages an especially good choice if you’re growing on a large scale. They’re also a good bet for people with little DIY experience, because the only tool you’ll need to put them together is a pair of wire cutters.

Concrete wire mesh is stiffer than most other fence wire, and its openings are large enough that you can easily reach through to pick the tomatoes. Cut sections about 5 to 6 feet long to form circular cages 19 to 23 inches in diameter. To make storage easier, vary the diameters so that two or three cages will nest together, one inside the other.

These lightweight cages will blow over easily unless you stake them, so anchor them firmly to the ground with steel T-posts. You can extend your growing season by wrapping each cage with plastic or row cover. This type of tomato cage also works well as a trellis for cucumbers, beans and other vining crops.

Supplies:

* Rolls of 6-by-6-inch concrete reinforcing wire mesh
* Steel T-posts

Estimated cost: about $8 per cage (based on making 30 cages from a 150-foot roll of concrete mesh, with one steel post per cage)

Complete instructions: See Using Wire Mesh in the Garden.
The Indestructible Tomato Cage

This cage earns the name “indestructible” because it’s made of sturdy plastic pipes (see illustration), which are easy to work with and won’t rot or rust. To construct these cages, drill three sets of corresponding holes in each of three equal lengths of plastic pipe. Form the cages by placing horizontal metal rods (electrical conduit) through holes in the plastic uprights. Make sure the plastic pipes have a large enough diameter to hold the metal conduit you use. The metal crossbars can be removed at the end of the season, making breakdown a breeze and requiring minimal storage space. A bonus: By pouring water into the tops of the vertical pipes, you can deliver moisture directly to your plants’ roots — where they need it most — without providing surface water to competing weeds.

To make drilling the holes in the plastic pipes easier, MOTHER EARTH NEWS contributing editor Steve Maxwell recommends using a step bit. “As the name suggests, a step bit is shaped into a series of steps and designed for use drilling thin metal,” he says. “They also happen to work really well on plastic. Because each level is incrementally larger, they go into the surfaces gently, with little chance of grabbing and splitting.”

Supplies:

* Three 4-foot (or longer) pieces of 3-inch diameter plastic pipe
* 15 feet of electrical conduit

Estimated cost: about $25 per cage

Complete instructions: See Our Indestructable Tomato Cage.

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/print-article.aspx?id=2147493659#ixzz1IneangFW



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11 things you should buy organic on Shine

11 things you should buy organic on Shine

11 things you should buy organic


By Sara Reistad-Long

By now, we all know there’s a benefit to buying some stuff organic. But these days you’re faced with the option of getting everything organic—from fruits and veggies to mattresses and clothing. You want to do right by your body, for sure, but going the all-natural route en masse can be pricey.

So we wondered: What’s really essential for our health? That’s why we came up with this definitive list. Here's what should be in your cart—and what you don’t have to worry about.

Beef
You’ve probably read plenty of stories about the risks of eating chicken. But the most important protein to buy organic may well be beef. "Research suggests a strong connection between some of the hormones given to cattle and cancer in humans, particularly breast cancer," says Samuel Epstein, MD, professor emeritus of environmental and occupational medicine at the University of Illinois at Chicago School of Public Health. Specifically, the concern is that the estrogen-like agents used on cattle could increase your cancer risk, adds Ted Schettler, MD, science director at the Science and Environmental Health Network.

Though there are strong regulations about the use of hormones in cattle, "not all beef producers are following those regulations strictly, and some studies continue to find hormone residue in cattle," Dr. Schettler says. When you buy beef that’s been certified organic by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), you’re not only cutting out those hormones, you’re also avoiding the massive doses of antibiotics cows typically receive, which the USDA says may lead to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria in people.

Health.com: 10 types of food that can make you sick

Strawberries
Strawberries may be a superfood—but they pose a potential risk unless you go organic. In addition to having up to 13 pesticides detected on the fruit, according to an Environmental Working Group (EWG) analysis, conventional "strawberries have a large surface area and all those tiny bumps, which makes the pesticides hard to wash off, so you’re ingesting more of those chemicals," explains Marion Nestle, PhD, a professor of nutrition and public health at New York University and author of What to Eat.

If you can, also skip conventional peaches, apples, blueberries, and cherries, which are typically treated with multiple pesticides and usually eaten skins-on.

Cookware
Your pots and pans are just as crucial to upgrade as the food you cook in them: "Most nonstick cookware contains a fluorochemical called PTFE that breaks down to form toxic fumes when overheated," says Olga Naidenko, PhD, a senior scientist at the EWG. "Those fumes can coat the inside of the lungs and cause allergy-like symptoms."

Tests commissioned by the EWG showed that in just two to five minutes on a conventional stove top, cookware coated with nonstick surfaces could exceed temperatures at which the coating emits toxic gases. Switch to stainless steel, ceramic, or cast iron cookware.

Health.com: 11 kitchen tools that keep you thin

Popcorn
The linings of microwave-popcorn bags may contain a toxic chemical called perfluorooctanoic acid, or PFOA, which is used to prevent the food from sticking to the paper. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), PFOA is a likely carcinogen. "We don’t know all of the hazardous effects of PFOA yet, but we have some evidence of a link to cancer, as well as to effects on the immune, nervous, and endocrine systems," says David Carpenter, MD, director of the Institute for Health and the Environment at the University at Albany.

Pick up an air-popper or make your popcorn in a pan on the stove top.

Yard pesticides
Some lawn and garden pesticides contain suspected carcinogens, according to EPA data. Long-term pesticide exposure may be related to changes in the brain and nervous system, the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center reports. "Not only are you breathing the chemicals in, but you bring them indoors and onto carpets via your shoes," says McKay Jenkins, PhD, a journalism professor at the University of Delaware and author of What’s Gotten Into Us?

Healthier brands like BurnOut and EcoClear are made from vinegar and lemon juice, and are effective weed-killers.

Heatlh.com: 10 dirty fruits and vegetables

All-purpose home cleaners
Time for spring-cleaning? Using common household cleaners may expose you to potentially harmful chemicals. Ammonia and chlorine bleach can irritate the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. And some cleaners contain phthalates, some of which are endocrine disruptors, meaning they interfere with normal hormone activity, says EWG senior scientist Becky Sutton, PhD.

Although there’s no definitive proof that phthalates cause problems in humans, "the greatest concern is how early-life exposure will affect male [reproductive] development," Dr. Carpenter says. There’s weaker evidence, he adds, that phthalates affect the nervous and immune systems. Go natural with the cleaner you use the most frequently and in the most places, such as kitchen-counter spray—look for brands approved by Green Seal or EcoLogo, two organizations that identify products that have met environmental label guidelines.

Health.com: Green guide to cleaning

Water bottles
You’ve probably heard that many hard, reusable plastic water bottles could be bad for you because they may contain BPA, or bisphenol A, another endocrine disruptor according to the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences.

"For adults, the biggest concern with BPA is that it may increase the risk of breast cancer in women and reduce sperm counts in men," says Dr. Carpenter, who explains that BPA can leach out into the water in the bottle. To be safe, sip from an unlined stainless steel or BPA-free plastic bottle.

Food-storage containers
BPA strikes again: Many food-storage containers are made of the hard, clear polycarbonate plastic that may contain BPA. As is the case with water bottles, the BPA can leach out of the plastic in these containers and seep into your leftovers.

Health.com: Studies report more harmful effects from BPA

"The leaching is increased during heating, but it also leaches to a smaller degree even when cold foods are stored," Dr. Carpenter explains. Glass containers are your safest—not to mention planet-friendly—bet. Both Rubbermaid (at left) and Pyrex make glass ones with BPA-free plastic lids.

Milk
The milk you’re drinking may not be doing your body good: Dairy products account for a reported 60 to 70 percent of the estrogens we consume through our food. If that seems like a shockingly large number, it’s mainly because milk naturally contains hormones passed along from cows. What worries some experts is that about 17% of dairy cows are treated with the hormone rBST (or rBGH), which stimulates milk production by increasing circulating levels of another hormone called insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1).

"Elevated levels of IGF-1 in people are associated with an increased risk of cancer, including breast cancer," Dr. Schettler explains. In fact, the use of rBGH is banned in Europe and Canada. Although research has yet to definitively conclude whether drinking rBGH-treated milk increases your IGF-1 levels high enough to cause concern, Dr. Schettler says it’s advisable to buy milk that hasn’t been treated with it. So pick up milk that’s labeled rBGH-free, rBST-free, or is produced without artificial hormones.

Health.com: 11 healthy milk shakes and smoothies

Celery
When researchers at the EWG analyzed 89,000 produce-pesticide tests to determine the most contaminated fruits and vegetables, celery topped the chart. "In terms of the sheer number of chemicals, it was the worst," says Sonya Lunder, senior analyst at the EWG. Celery stalks are very porous, so they retain the pesticides they’re sprayed with—up to 13 of them, according to the EWG analysis. Lunder also advises buying organic bell peppers, spinach and potatoes because they scored high for pesticides, as well.

Tomato sauce
When picking up tomato sauce or paste, choose the glass jar or box over the can. "The lining on the inside of food cans that’s used to protect against corrosion and bacteria may contain BPA," explains Cheryl Lyn Walker, PhD, a professor of carcinogenesis at MD Anderson Cancer Center and past president of the Society of Toxicology.

In 2009, Consumer Reports tested BPA levels in a variety of canned foods and found it in nearly all of the brands tested, suggesting that the chemical leaked in. "What can happen is that BPA in the lining can leach into the food," Walker explains.


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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

11 Emergency Food Items That Can Last a Lifetime | Before It's News

11 Emergency Food Items That Can Last a Lifetime | Before It's News

Did you know that with proper storage techniques, you can have a lifetime supply of certain foods? Certain foods can stand the test of time, and continue being a lifeline to the families that stored it. Knowing which foods last indefinitely and how to store them are you keys to success.

The best way to store food for the long term is by using a multi-barrier system. This system protects the food from natural elements such as moisture and sunlight, as well as from insect infestations.

Typically, those who store bulk foods look for inexpensive items that have multi-purposes and will last long term. Listed below are 11 food items that are not only multi-purpose preps, but they can last a lifetime!

Honey

Honey never really goes bad. In a tomb in Egypt 3,000 years ago, honey was found and was still edible. If there are temperature fluctuations and sunlight, then the consistency and color can change. Many honey harvesters say that when honey crystallizes, then it can be re-heated and used just like fresh honey. Because of honey’s low water content, microorganisms do not like the environment.

Uses: curing, baking, medicinal, wine (mead)

Salt

Although salt is prone to absorbing moisture, it’s shelf life is indefinite. This indispensable mineral will be a valuable commodity in a long term disaster and will be a essential bartering item.

Uses: curing, preservative, cooking, cleaning, medicinal, tanning hides

Sugar

Life would be so boring without sugar. Much like salt, sugar is also prone to absorbing moisture, but this problem can be eradicated by adding some rice granules into the storage container.

Uses: sweetener for beverages, breads, cakes, preservative, curing, gardening, insecticide (equal parts of sugar and baking powder will kill cockroaches).

Wheat

Wheat is a major part of the diet for over 1/3 of the world. This popular staple supplies 20% of daily calories to a majority of the world population. Besides being a high carbohydrate food, wheat contains valuable protein, minerals, and vita­mins. Wheat protein, when balanced by other foods that supply certain amino acids such as lysine, is an efficient source of protein.

Uses: baking, making alcohol, livestock feed, leavening agent

Dried corn

Essentially, dried corn can be substituted for any recipe that calls for fresh corn. Our ancestors began drying corn because of it’s short lived season. To extend the shelf life of corn, it has to be preserved by drying it out so it can be used later in the year.

Uses: soups, cornmeal, livestock feed, hominy and grits, heating source (do a search for corn burning fireplaces).

Baking soda

This multi-purpose prep is a must have for long term storage.

Uses: teeth cleaner, household cleaner, dish cleaner, laundry detergent booster, leavening agent for baked goods, tarnish remover

Instant coffee, tea, and cocoa

Adding these to your long term storage will not only add a variety to just drinking water, but will also lift morale. Instant coffee is high vacuum freeze dried. So, as long as it is not introduced to moisture, then it will last. Storage life for all teas and cocoas can be extended by using desiccant packets or oxygen absorbing packets, and by repackaging the items with a vacuum sealing.

Uses: beverages, flavor additions to baked goods

Non-carbonated soft drinks

Although many of us prefer carbonated beverages, over time the sugars break down and the drink flavor is altered. Non-carbonated beverages stand a longer test of time. And, as long as the bottles are stored in optimum conditions, they will last. Non-carbonated beverages include: vitamin water, Gatorade, juices, bottled water.

Uses: beverages, flavor additions to baked goods

White rice

White rice is a major staple item that preppers like to put away because it’s a great source for calories, cheap and has a long shelf life. If properly stored this popular food staple can last 30 years or more.

Uses: breakfast meal, addition to soups, side dishes, alternative to wheat flour

Bouillon products

Because bouillon products contain large amounts of salt, the product is preserved. However, over time, the taste of the bouillon could be altered. If storing bouillon cubes, it would be best repackage them using a food sealer or sealed in mylar bags.

Uses: flavoring dishes

Powdered milk – in nitrogen packed cans

Powdered milk can last indefinitely, however, it is advised to prolong it’s shelf life by either repackaging it for longer term storage, or placing it in the freezer. If the powdered milk developes an odor or has turned a yellowish tint, it’s time to discard.

Uses: beverage, dessert, ingredient for certain breads, addition to soup and baked goods.


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companion planting gardening plants

companion planting gardening plants

Plant Companions: Friend or Foe?
Plant companions ensure a happy garden--and gardener.
by George and Becky Lohmiller

Source: The 2005 Old Farmer's Almanac
[1]


Credit: Angela Altomare
Related Articles

* Plant Companions: List for Ten Common Vegetables [2]
* Companion Planting: The Three Sisters [3]



It takes more than good soil, sun, and nutrients to ensure success in a garden. Plants have to grow well with one another. Some are friends and some are foes! Learn more about companion planting or what is also called companion gardening.
Examples of Companion Plants

* Blueberries, mountain laurel, azaleas, and other ericaceous (heath family) plants thrive in the acidic soils created by pines and oaks.
* Shade-loving plants seek the shelter provided by a wooded grove.
* The shade-lovers in return protect the forest floor from erosion with their thick tangle of shallow roots.
* Legumes and some trees, such as alders, have symbiotic relationships with bacteria in the soil that help them to capture nitrogen from the air and convert it to fertilizer, enriching the soil so plants can prosper in their presence.

Tips for Your Vegetable Garden

* Some plants, especially herbs, act as repellents, confusing insects with their strong odors that mask the scent of the intended host plants.
* Dill and basil planted among tomatoes protect the tomatoes from hornworms, and sage scattered about the cabbage patch reduces injury from cabbage moths.
* Marigolds are as good as gold when grown with just about any garden plant, repelling beetles, nematodes, and even animal pests.
* Some companions act as trap plants, luring insects to themselves. Nasturtiums, for example, are so favored by aphids that the devastating insects will flock to them instead of other plants.
* Carrots, dill, parsley, and parsnip attract garden heroes -- praying mantises, ladybugs, and spiders -- that dine on insect pests.
* Much of companion planting is common sense: Lettuce, radishes, and other quick-growing plants sown between hills of melons or winter squash will mature and be harvested long before these vines need more leg room.
* Leafy greens like spinach and Swiss chard grown in the shadow of corn
* Sunflowers appreciate the dapple shade that corn casts and, since their roots occupy different levels in the soil, don't compete for water and nutrients.

Incompatible Plants (Combatants)

* While white garlic and onions repel a plethora of pests and make excellent neighbors for most garden plants, the growth of beans and peas is stunted in their presence.
* Potatoes and beans grow poorly in the company of sunflowers, and although cabbage and cauliflower are closely related, they don't like each other at all.

Strange Pairings

Sometimes plants may be helpful to one another only at a certain stage of their growth. The number and ratio of different plants growing together is often a factor in their compatibility, and sometimes plants make good companions for no apparent reason.

* You would assume that keeping a garden weed-free would be a good thing, but this is not always the case. Certain weeds pull nutrients from deep in the soil and bring them close to the surface. When the weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available in the surface soil and are more easily accessed by shallow-rooted plants.
* Perhaps one of the most intriguing examples of strange garden bedfellows is the relationship between the weed stinging nettle and several vegetable varieties. For reasons that are unclear, plants grown in the presence of stinging nettle display exceptional vigor and resist spoiling.

One of the keys to successful companion planting is observation. Record your plant combination's and the results from year to year, and share this information with other gardening friends. Companionship is just as important for gardeners as it is for gardens.


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Monday, April 4, 2011

Exclusive: Malloy's Contingency Plans Call For Cutting An Additional 10 Percent From Agency Budgets In Next Two Years; Preparations If Ongoing Union Talks Fall Apart - Capitol Watch

Exclusive: Malloy's Contingency Plans Call For Cutting An Additional 10 Percent From Agency Budgets In Next Two Years; Preparations If Ongoing Union Talks Fall Apart - Capitol Watch


As talks with state employee unions have not reached a final deal, Gov. Dannel P. Malloy is asking all agency heads to cut their budgets by an additional 10 percent in each of the next two years.

Malloy is moving ahead with an alternative budget in case the ongoing talks with the unions fall apart. He is seeking $1 billion in savings and concessions in each of the next two years from the unions, and the two sides are trying to reach a deal in the coming weeks.

Malloy is not yet ordering layoffs, which he has threatened to do if the talks collapse. Instead, supervisors are being told that they can save money through attrition.

Benjamin Barnes, Malloy's budget chief, essentially announced the move by sending a memo Monday morning to all agency heads to advise them of the contingency plans.

The memo, obtained by The Hartford Courant's Capitol Watch, says, "All types of reduction options should be considered including program eliminations, facility closures, and savings due to staff reductions such as attrition anticipated by June 30, 2011 that may not have been included in the recommended appropriations for the biennium.''

Since the administration is moving quickly to craft the alternative budget, the reductions from each agency are due at the end of the day on April 13. Malloy is ordering the alternatives for the executive branch, along with asking for similar cuts in the judicial and legislative branches.

The 10 percent cuts by the commissioners would amount to about $150 million per year. That includes only the money that could be saved under the authority of the commissioners and does not include any savings from layoffs and further cuts that could be authorized by the governor.

When asked about the plans, Roy Occhiogrosso, a senior adviser to Malloy, said, "The governor has been very clear that he's been preparing an alternative budget. This is just one piece of that.''

The legislature's budget-writing committee must make their recommendations on the overall budget by April 26, and Malloy is hoping for an overall budget deal by early May. That, however, is a self-imposed deadline, and the current fiscal year does not end until June 30.


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Thursday, March 31, 2011

There Is Something Seriously Wrong With This Country

is over 14 times larger

A List Of 28 Things That Will Make You Think That There Is Something Seriously Wrong With This Country

Posted: 30 Mar 2011 08:51 PM PDT


What in the world is happening to America? Perhaps you have asked yourself that question from time to time. Today it seems like everything is falling apart. Our economy is crumbling, our politicians are incompetent, we have just gotten involved in another war, corruption is everywhere and the Americans people are so addicted to entertainment that hardly anything can wake them from their stupor. It is enough to make you think that there is just not much hope for America. But the truth is that we should never give up. It is when the times are darkest that the greatest heroes arise. We truly do live in challenging times, but that just means that there are great victories to be won and great stories to be written. There may be a whole lot of things that are very wrong with America right now, but that doesn't mean that the game is over quite yet.

Unfortunately, right now most Americans are completely asleep. Just like during the declining years of the Roman Empire, most people that live in the U.S. are spoiled, decadent and completely addicted to entertainment.

The following is how many Americans actually plan their weeks....

Monday: Watch Dancing With The Stars

Tuesday: Watch The Dancing With The Stars Results Show

Wednesday: Watch American Idol

Thursday: Watch The American Idol Results Show

At this point, most people in this country cannot even intelligently discuss the pressing issues of our day.

In fact, 63 percent of Americans between the ages of 18 and 24 cannot find Iraq on a map and 90 percent of Americans in that same age group cannot find Afghanistan on a map.

We've got a lot of work to do.

America is in sorry shape and it desperately needs some heroes.

The following is a list of 28 things that will make you really think that there is something seriously wrong with this country....

#1 According to the Economic Policy Institute, almost 25 percent of U.S. households now have zero net worth or negative net worth. Back in 2007, that number was just 18.6 percent.

#2 According to the Pentagon, the cost of the first week of attacks on Libya was 600 million dollars.

#3 The major food producers are shrinking the sizes of their packages so that they won't have to raise prices. The New York Times recently did a story about one woman who was absolutely shocked when she started keeping track of shrinking package sizes at her local supermarket....

Ms. Stauber, 33, said she began inspecting her other purchases, aisle by aisle. Many canned vegetables dropped to 13 or 14 ounces from 16; boxes of baby wipes went to 72 from 80; and sugar was stacked in 4-pound, not 5-pound, bags, she said.

#4 It is being projected that for the first time ever, the OPEC nations are going to bring in over a trillion dollars from exporting oil this year. Their biggest customer is the United States.

#5 According to a recent census report, 13% of all the homes in the United States are sitting empty.

#6 20 percent of all the electricity in the United States is produced by nuclear power plants. Many of those plants are very similar to the damaged reactors at the Fukushima nuclear complex in Japan.

#7 Barack Obama promised us that radiation from the nuclear disaster in Japan would not be a problem in the United States, but already it has shown up in milk in Spokane, Washington.

#8 Dallas Federal Reserve Bank President Richard Fisher recently said the following....

"If we continue down on the path on which the fiscal authorities put us, we will become insolvent, the question is when."

Of course the Federal Reserve system was designed to get the U.S. government trapped in perpetual debt so actually he should be blaming himself and his friends over at the Fed.

#9 China produced 19.8 percent of all the goods consumed in the world last year. The United States only produced 19.4 percent.

#10 Back in 2005 at the peak of the housing bubble, the median property tax on a home in the United States was $1614. Today, even though home values have sunk like a rock, that figure has risen to $1917.

#11 In New Jersey, home owners pay an average of $7576 in property taxes every single year.

#12 According to the Federal Reserve, the adjusted monetary base has nearly tripled since mid-2008.

#13 Thanks for all the money printing Bernanke - according to one unofficial estimate, the U.S. in on track to have an 8.3 percent rate of inflation for the year.

#14 According to a recent article posted on the website of the American Institute of Economic Research, the purchasing power of a U.S. dollar declined from $1.00 in 1913 to 4.6 cents in 2009.

#15 The Ogallala Aquifer stretches from South Dakota to Texas, it is the largest underground supply of fresh water in the world, and it is rapidly running dry. So how is "America's breadbasket" going to continue to produce massive amounts of food for the rest of the world once that happens?

#16 The number of homes that were actually repossessed reached the 1 million mark for the first time ever during 2010.

#17 The U.S. industrial base has disintegrated so badly that we could literally export our entire manufacturing output and still not balance our trade with the rest of the globe.

#18 Goldman Sachs almost always wins. According to a recent regulatory filing, Goldman Sachs lost money on just 25 days in 2010 and on only 19 days in 2009.

#19 In 1994, the top 1 percent of all income earners paid 25 percent of all state taxes in New York. Today, the top 1 percent of all income earners pay 41 percent of all state taxes in New York.

#20 The National Institutes of Health has spent approximately $442,340 to study the behavior of male prostitutes in Vietnam.

#21 According to an absolutely stunning recent poll, 40 percent of all U.S. doctors plan to leave the profession at some point during the next three years because of Obamacare.

#22 If the new health care law is so great, then why is the Obama administration allowing so many organizations to opt out of it? According to the Department of Health and Human Services, more than 1,000 organizations have received Obamacare waivers so far.

#23 Large American cattle farms actually feed chicken manure to cattle because it is so cheap and because we produce way too much of it to properly dispose of as fertilizer.

#24 Every single year, Americans spend approximately 7.6 billion hours preparing their taxes.

#25 The IMF says that in order to fix the U.S. government budget deficit, taxes need to be doubled on every single U.S. citizen.

#26 Mandatory federal spending is going to surpass total federal revenue for the first time ever in this fiscal year. That was not supposed to happen until 50 years from now.

#27 Today, the U.S. national debt is over 14 times larger than it was back in 1981.

#28 According to the National Inflation Association, when you factor in the unfunded liabilities of the U.S. government, total federal debt obligations now come to a grand total of 76 trillion dollars.


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Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Monday, March 28, 2011

Connecticut News: all is well?

Well the latest from our beloved Rulers is that They have looked into the recent Levels of radiation falling on us and we have no worries! All is well! Go back to sleep..Like the Good little sheeple you are.. I'm not buying it Malloy!! But since I am joe smoe CT and my thoughts don't count I will just keep preparing myself and my family quietly over here in my own little corner in my own little room. One day the People of Connecticut will either wake up or end up being on the very losing end of their last chance.. Bruce

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Sunday, March 27, 2011

GAIACRAFT - HUGELKULTUR LESSON

GAIACRAFT - HUGELKULTUR LESSON

Hugelkultur: Using Woody Waste in Composting


By kerryg

Hugelkultur is an ancient form of sheet composting developed in Eastern Europe. It uses woody wastes such as fallen logs and pruned branches in order to build soil fertility and improve drainage and moisture retention.

If you walk through a natural woodland, you will see many fallen logs and branches on the ground. The older these logs are, the more life they sustain. A log that has rested on the forest floor for five or ten years will be covered in moss, mushrooms, wildflowers and even young trees. Poke at it a little and you will notice that the decaying wood is damp in all but the most vicious of droughts.

Hugelkultur is designed to take advantage of the natural fertility and moisture-conserving qualities of rotting wood, while speeding the process of decomposition up. The heat produced by decomposition also helps protect cold-sensitive plants.
Mushrooms on a rotting log. Photo by tacomabibelot.
How to Build a Hugelkultur Bed

1. Gather woody waste materials such as dead logs, extra firewood, pruned or clipped branches, and more. The wood can be either rotting or fresh, although already rotting wood decomposes fastest.
2. Lay the wood in a mound about 1-2 feet high and stomp on it a bit to break it up. You can dig a trench to lay the wood in, if you wish.
3. Cover the wood with other compost materials such as autumn leaves, grass clippings, garden wastes, and manure. (This stage is optional if you aren't planning to plant the bed immediately.)
4. Cover the wood and compost with a few inches of dirt and/or prepared compost.

You can either let the bed sit for awhile to rot, or plant it immediately. Among the plants known to do well in hugelkultur beds are potatoes, squash, melons, and a number of different species of berries. Other gardeners plant the bed with cover crops for the first year to improve the fertility even more before adding vegetables or other plants.


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Friday, March 25, 2011

Seed-starting Basics

Seed-starting Basics

Seed-starting Basics
By Nancy Bubel
After the warmth of holiday gatherings and festivities, planning for spring comforts us in the cold, short days of winter. Apart from the satisfying process of nurturing little green seedlings under your roof, practical reasons exist to start some of your seeds indoors. First, well-established young plants will produce earlier, thus giving you a longer picking season. In Northern states, such as Pennsylvania, where I live, we start heat-loving, long-season crops such as okra and eggplant indoors if we are to expect anything from them before Labor Day.
Second, many of us routinely start garden plants indoors — rather than buying seedlings from a nursery — to take advantage of special varieties available only from seed companies. Whatever your requirements — tomatoes for drying, storage or exceptional flavor; white eggplants; seedless watermelons; long-keeping cabbage; hot peppers; slow-bolting lettuces — these and many more vegetables with special qualities can be yours if you grow the plants from seed.
Unless you have a greenhouse or a large bank of fluorescent lights, you’ll want to be selective about the varieties of vegetables, herbs and flowers you start at home. Pick ones that will benefit the most from an early start. Given space for only a few, I’d choose tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and cabbage; basil and parsley; and snapdragons and dahlias from the “Spring Indoor Seed-starting Guide.”
Several others, including beets, Brussels sprouts and Chinese cabbage, don’t necessarily need a head start indoors, but I have done so on occasion. Beets need to be thinned, and they are sensitive to toxins in the soil. Brussels sprouts reach their best flavor in fall from spring planting. If you start Chinese cabbage early, sow it in individual pots because transplanting sometimes can make it bolt to seed prematurely.
The following vegetables are not usually recommended for indoor seed sowing: asparagus, snap beans, lima beans, carrots, corn, endive (best in fall from spring outdoor sowing), parsnips (best eaten in fall), radishes, spinach (seeds germinate well in cool soil), soybeans, Swiss chard and turnips. Herbs that fit in this category include dill, cilantro and summer savory.
HOW TO BEGIN
Your seed orders have arrived and you’re ready to plant. First, gather your containers. These can be special seed-starting flats, cubes or other systems ordered from a catalog; flats made from scrap wood; or a cobbled-together assortment of cut-down milk cartons, used aluminum pans, chipped pots, cottage cheese tubs, etc.
Like many gardeners, I used a motley collection of wooden flats, purchased trays and household discards when I had a home greenhouse with plenty of space. Now, my plant-starting space is more limited, so my system consists of one or two 10-row, commercially made plastic flats — rather flimsy things with narrow, three-fourths-inch-wide rows. Each flat is set into a 12-by-22-inch plastic tray; the 10-row flats are perforated but the trays are not. Soon after the seeds germinate, I transplant the seedlings into individual cells in four-, six- or eight-cell market packs saved from nursery purchases and donated by friends.
With this system, I can plant 20 kinds of tomatoes by putting a cardboard separator in the center of each row, and because the sections are small, I waste less seed as I’m not tempted to overplant.
Homemade scrap wood flats can be any size that fits your available space, with two exceptions: Not too large or they’ll be too heavy to lift when full of soil, and no more than 2 to 3 inches deep. Deeper flats waste potting soil, and too-shallow ones limit root development and dry out prematurely. Leave one-eighth-inch spaces between the slats on the bottom of a homemade flat to allow for drainage. I usually line mine with several sheets of newspaper to keep soil from washing through the bottom wood strips.
PLANTING MEDIA
Now, fill those containers with growing media that will encourage germination and root growth. Because seeds need only moisture, warmth and air to germinate, they can be started in nutrient-free materials such as vermiculite, shredded moss (not peat moss, which is hard to moisten and tends to crust when dry, but moss collected from the woods) or a mixture of equal parts vermiculite, moss and perlite. Vermiculite is mica that has been superheated to the point of expanding into flaky granules; sometimes, it contains small amounts of naturally occurring asbestos, so keep it damp and use it outdoors. Perlite is heat-expanded volcanic rock.
Today, the easiest plan for me is just to plant seeds in purchased potting soil. In the past, I’ve used a wide variety of homemade media. Here are three recipes that work well, especially for use as growing media for transplanted seedlings:
• A mixture of equal parts screened finished compost and vermiculite.
• A mixture of equal parts finished compost; commercial potting soil; and perlite, vermiculite or sharp sand, or a mixture of all three. Use coarse builder’s sand; avoid seashore sand, which usually is too fine and packs too densely, consequently offering less room for air.
• For a completely homegrown mixture, I’ve used equal parts compost, good garden soil (both screened) and torn moss gathered in our woods.
Fill your planting containers with whatever germinating medium you’ve chosen, gently firm the surface and water it so the medium is thoroughly moistened but not soggy. Use warm water for quick absorption. If you water after planting your seeds, you will wash them into corners or, in the case of tiny seeds, bury them too deeply.
Next, plant your seeds. Place them on the damp soil surface, no closer than one-fourth inch for tiny seeds and half to two-thirds inch for larger ones. Scatter a thin covering of soil over the seeds or just press in those that need sunlight to germinate (see the “Spring Indoor Seed-starting Guide”). Gently firm the seeds and soil in place. Then, before you do anything else, label the flat or row in a 10-row flat with the variety name and planting date.
You’ve given your seeds two of the conditions they need to germinate: moisture and supportive surroundings rich in air spaces. They need no nourishment until they sprout; in fact, soil with too much organic matter can produce an overabundance of carbon dioxide that can deter germination of some seeds.
Now you need to provide the warmth that most seeds need to encourage sprouting. Most homes have warm spots — the top of the water heater, near a radiator or heat vent, close to a woodstove — that will help nurse planted seeds to germination. If your house is cool or those sites are impractical, you can put a commercially made soil-heating cable under your flats.
Water the containers as needed to keep them evenly moist but not sopping wet. Bottom watering, by setting the containers in trays of warm water, is best for two reasons: The seeds are less likely to be flooded, and you’ll avoid surface puddling of water, a sure invitation to soilborne diseases.
Most of the seeds you’re likely to plant indoors will germinate best at temperatures between 75 and 90 degrees. I often cover flats of planted seeds with damp newspapers, but I have learned not to enclose them in plastic bags, which encourage mold. Flats of quick-sprouting plants, such as lettuce, should be checked daily or at least every other day. Once a sprout nudges above the soil surface, even if it is just the “elbow” of a stem — not yet a leaf — expose the seedling to light. Those that lack sufficient light or that grow too closely together develop long, spindly, weak stems.
TECHNIQUES
You’ll notice that the first leaves — the “seed leaves” — of the new, little sprout are less notched and differentiated than the leaves that will appear later. Let the plant subsist on its seed leaves for a few days before you consider transplanting it to a larger container so the roots can develop more fully. You can wait to transplant until the seedling develops its first true leaves, but get the job done before the second set of true leaves appears. If the seedlings are growing too thickly in their germinating flat, then you can thin them by snipping off the extras with scissors, but don’t pull them. Pulling out the excess can disturb the roots of adjacent seedlings if the plants are crowded and developing well.
Why transplant? For one thing, your young plants now need richer soil, especially if they have sprouted in a soilless medium such as vermiculite. If for any reason you leave seedlings growing in a soilless medium (as some gardeners do), you’ll need to feed them a weekly dose of diluted plant fertilizer, such as fish emulsion. Then, seedlings generally need more room to grow than they have in their sprouting containers, especially in 10-row flats. Transplanting stimulates the growth of more feeder roots and gives you an opportunity to select and nurture the strongest seedlings in the batch.
Here’s how to transplant. First, prepare your new containers — cell packs, flower pots, larger flats, etc. — by filling them with loose, clean, new potting soil. (I do reuse potting soil but only for potting up mature plants and bulbs.) Next, prick out your chosen seedlings one by one. Use a slender digging instrument such as a plastic knife, fork handle, ice cream stick or old screwdriver to gently nudge the young plant out of its bed, taking care to retain as many roots as possible. Handle the stem gently to avoid bruising it. Immediately settle the seedling in its new position, at a depth similar to or slightly deeper than its depth in the sprouting medium. Spread the roots out as much as possible and firm the soil gently over them. Now water the young plant well to settle it in and help it compensate for any root damage suffered in transplanting.
NURTURING THE SEEDLING
Seedlings transplanted into shallow flats or cell packs may dry out faster than those transplanted directly into the garden, so check them daily and water when the soil feels dry, about every three to five days. For those in shallow flats or cell packs, bottom watering is ideal, though messy if you have many wooden flats. My cell packs in shallow plastic trays are easy to bottom water simply by pouring water into the tray. Provide enough water to soak the whole container, but remove or elevate the containers on pebbles if excess water remains in the trays for a day. Waterlogged soil loses vital air spaces and can cause roots to rot.
If your transplants are in a nutrient-containing medium such as a commercial potting soil, they won’t need fertilizer for at least 10 days. At that time, use a half-strength dilution for young seedlings and feed them about every 10 to 14 days until you plant them out. Go easy on the fertilizer if plants receive a less-than-ideal amount of light, as they would if confined to a windowsill.
Most seedlings need less warmth than germinating seeds. A temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees is fine, down to 50 degrees for lettuce and parsley. Young plants forced to make do with inadequate light should not be kept too warm; they will stay stockier and greener during short winter days when not overheated.
Sixteen hours of light a day is ideal, and you’ll need to use fluorescent lights to provide this much light in the winter. Perhaps you can set up lights on an enclosed porch, or in a basement or spare room. My setup is simple: two sets of double 48-inch tubes topped by metal reflector shades and hung on chains above a counter in the basement. Sometimes I keep the lights on day and night, rotating my seedling collection so each tray receives 13 hours of light daily.
Plants need darkness, too, to use absorbed nutrients for new growth. For most efficient use of the lights, keep the tubes clean and position the plants so their leaves are close to the tubes — no more than 4 inches away. To reflect more light onto the plants, prop mirrors, white glossy boards or pieces of cardboard covered with aluminum foil next to the lights. Special plant-growing lights, with wavelengths especially suited to the purpose, are very effective. I’ve also had good results using one cool-white and one warm-white tube in pairs. (See “Use the Right Light for Seed-Starting Success” for more information on using grow lights. — MOTHER)
DISEASES
The most common disease of young seedlings is damping-off, caused by a fungus that thrives in wet, poorly ventilated places. The main symptom is unmistakable: When an otherwise healthy, green-leafed young plant falls over, you’ll notice the stem at soil level looks pinched.
Prevention is easier than curing: From the start, provide good air circulation and avoid overwatering. Also, top off the soil surfaces around the seedlings with milled sphagnum moss, which contains beneficial bacteria known to inhibit certain plant diseases. If only a few seedlings in a batch are affected, you can sometimes save the rest by removing the affected seedlings, improving drainage and air circulation, and spraying the survivors with chamomile or garlic tea.
HARDENING OFF, PLANTING OUT
It’s a week or two before the safe planting-out date (see map) for your hardier seedlings — first onions, then lettuce, parsley and the cabbage family. It’s time to toughen your new plants to withstand the harsher outdoor conditions. Do this by watering less, keeping them a bit cooler and not fertilizing. Hardening off takes a week or so; it’s when you first set your plants outside but before you put them in the ground. At first, give them a half-day in a sheltered place, gradually work up to full sun and, if a frost warning is issued, cover your tender young plants at night.
The ideal planting-out day is cloudy and damp. As you set each plant in its hole in the ground, water it in and then cover the roots with fine loose soil — never with rough chunks of ground or mud. On a bright, sunny day, you might want to cover the seedlings with berry baskets or a span of fabric row cover for shade.
Now that your weeks of careful tending have produced healthy new plants, let yourself gloat a bit. You and your plants have grown into spring, and more good days lie ahead.

— Former Mother Earth News editor Nancy Bubel is the author of The New Seed Starters Handbook. To order, see Page 110 or go to Mother Earth Shopping.

THE AWESOME SEED
Take a moment to consider those seeds you’re about to plant: those flakes, wisps, grains, orbs and particles. No matter how tiny — and some flower seeds are as fine as dust — each seed is a living entity. Within a protective outer coat, the seed contains an embryo that will grow into a seedling, a supply of stored nutrients along with enzymes that convert the stored food into a usable form, and genetic directions for its development. And yes, seeds even “breathe” — that is, they take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide. When seeds are planted in warm, moist soil, they absorb water, thus activating enzymes that start the sprouting process. Seeds are programmed to grow; we just help them along.




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Best Garden Seed Companies

Best Garden Seed Companies


Best Garden Seed Companies

By Tabitha Alterman

Whether your garden is frozen over or your first freeze is yet to arrive, it's never too early to start dreaming about next year's garden. If you set aside a little time this winter to plan what to grow next year, you'll be rewarded with an early start come spring. Plus, you can make your green thumb even greener just by reading seed catalogs. New gardeners, especially, should read seed catalogs to learn about fruit and veggie varieties that are naturally pest- and disease-resistant, are fabulously prolific, or offer superior flavor and nutrition. It's also a good way to introduce yourself to under appreciated but fun-to-grow fruits and veggies such as kohlrabi and mouse melons.

Lucky for us, it's easier than ever to find healthy garden seeds that were grown organically and come from solid, open-pollinated stock. Even some of the largest seed companies are beginning to offer a wider selection of organic, non-hybrid, and non-chemically-treated seeds. When possible, order garden seeds from companies based in your area. Their varieties are more likely to be well adapted to your soil and climate. The following seed companies (organized by state; skip to the end for Canadian listings) have a great selection of open-pollinated and organic vegetable and herb seeds, and you'll learn a lot from their informative catalogs. Their extensive offerings are available online and/or via traditional print catalogs. For help finding even more seed sources, check out our handy tool, the customized Seed and Plant Finder.
Seed Companies By State


ALABAMA

Sand Mountain Herbs (Fyffe, Ala.)

ARIZONA

Native Seeds / SEARCH (Tucson, Ariz.)

Seeds Trust (Cornville, Ariz.)

CALIFORNIA

Bountiful Gardens (Willits, Calif.)

J. L. Hudson, Seedsman (LaHonda, Calif.)

Laurel's Heirloom Tomato Plants (Lomita, Calif.)

Mountain Valley Growers (Squaw Valley, Calif.)

Natural Gardening Co. (Petaluma, Calif.)

Ornamental Edibles (San Jose, Calif.)

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (Grass Valley, Calif.)

Redwood City Seeds (Redwood City, Calif.)

Renee's Garden (Felton, Calif.)

COLORADO

Botanical Interests (Broomfield, Colo.)

Golden Harvest Organics (Fort Collins, Colo.)

The Garlic Store (Fort Collins, Colo.)

CONNECTICUT

Comstock, Ferre & Co. (Wethersfield, Conn.)

John Sheeper's Kitchen Garden Seeds (Bantam, Conn.)

New England Seed (Hartford, Conn.)

FLORIDA

Eden Organic Nursery Services (E.O.N.S.) (Hallandale, Fla.)

The Gourmet Gardener (Live Oak, Fla.)

The Pepper Gal (Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.)

Tomato Growers Supply Co. (Fort Myers, Fla.)

ILLINOIS

American Organic Seed & Grain (Warren, Ill.)

Underwood Gardens (Woodstock, Ill.)

INDIANA

Great Harvest Organics (Atlanta, Ind.)

The Chile Woman (Bloomington, Ind.)

IOWA

Blue River Organic Seed (Kelley, Iowa)

Mark Seed Co. (Perry, Iowa)

Sand Hill Preservation Center (Calamus, Iowa)

Seed Savers Exchange (Decorah, Iowa)

KANSAS

Pendleton's Country Market (Lawrence, Kan.)

Skyfire Garden Seeds (Kanopolis, Kan.)

KENTUCKY

Ferry-Morse Seed Company (Fulton, Ky.)

Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center (Berea, Ky.)

MAINE

FEDCO Seeds (Waterville, Maine)

Johnny's Selected Seeds (Winslow, Maine)

Pinetree Garden Seeds (New Gloucester, Maine)

Wood Prairie Farm (Bridgewater, Maine)

MARYLAND

Pepper Joe's (Timonium, Md.)

MICHIGAN

Krohne Plant Farms, Inc. (Hartford, Mich.)

MINNESOTA

Albert Lea Seed House (Albert Lea, Minn.)

MISSOURI

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (Mansfield, Mo.)

Granny's Heirloom Seeds (Humansville, Mo.)

Pantry Garden Herbs (Cleveland, Mo.)

NEW HAMPSHIRE

G & H Garlic Farm (Littleton, N. H.)

NEW JERSEY

Thompson & Morgan (Jackson, N.J.)

NEW MEXICO

Gourmet Seed International (Tatum, N.M.)

Plants of the Southwest (Santa Fe and Albuquerque, N.M.)

Seeds of Change (Santa Fe, N.M.)

Seeds West Garden Seeds (Albuquerque, N.M.)

NEW YORK

Harris Seeds (Rochester, N.Y.)

Seedway (Hall, N.Y.)

Stokes Seeds Inc. (Buffalo, N.Y.)

Turtle Tree Seed (Copake, N.Y.)

NORTH CAROLINA

Appalachian Seeds (Flat Rock, N.C.)

Cornerstone Garlic Farm (Reidsville, N. C.)

OHIO

Bobba-Mike's Garlic Farm (Orrville, Ohio)

OREGON

Abundant Life Seeds (Saginaw, Ore.)

Horizon Herbs (Williams, Ore.)

Nichols Garden Nursery (Albany, Ore.)

One Green World (Molalla, Ore.)

Sow Organic Seed (Williams, Ore.)

Territorial Seed Co. (Cottage Grove, Ore.)

The Thyme Garden Herb Company (Alsea, Ore.)

Victory Seed Company (Molalla, Ore.)

Wild Garden Seed (Philomath, Ore.)

PENNSYLVANIA

Container Seeds (Wellsboro, Penn.)

Heirloom Seeds (W. Elizabeth, Penn.)

The Cook's Garden (Warminster, Penn.)

W. Atlee Burpee Co.(Warminster, Penn.)

SOUTH CAROLINA

Park Seed Co. (Greenwood, S.C.)

R. H. Shumway's (Graniteville, S.C.)

Seeds for the South (Graniteville, S.C.)

TENNESSEE

Marianna's Heirloom Seeds (Dickson, Tenn.)

New Hope Seed Company (Bon Aqua, Tenn.)

TEXAS

Garden Store-N-More (LaPorte, Tex.)

Willhite Seed Inc. (Poolville, Tex.)

Bob Wells Nursery (Lindale, Tex.)

Brown's Omaha Plant Farms (Omaha, Tex.)

Dixondale Farms (Carrizo Springs, Tex.)

VERMONT

High Mowing Organic Seeds (Wolcott, Vt.)

VIRGINIA

Garden Medicinals and Culinaries (Earlysville, Va.)

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (Mineral, Va.)

WASHINGTON

Filaree Farm (Okanogan, Wash.)

Garden City Seeds (Ellensburg, Wash.)

Osborne Seed Company (Mount Vernon, Wash.)

WISCONSIN

Botanikka Seeds (Iron Ridge, Wis.)

Totally Tomatoes (Randolf, Wis.)

Vermont Bean Seed Co. (Randolph, Wis.)

Seed Companies in Canada


Boundary Garlic Farm (Midway, British Columbia)

Gardeners Web (Bowden, Alberta)

Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens (St. Albert, Alberta)

Salt Spring Seeds (Salt Spring Island, British Columbia)

Stellar Seeds (Sorrento, British Columbia)

West Coast Seeds (Delta, British Columbia)

William Dam Seeds (Dundas, Ontario)

Richter's (Goodwood, Ontario)


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Easiest Vegetables to Grow - Ask Our Experts Blog - Organic Gardening

Easiest Vegetables to Grow - Ask Our Experts Blog - Organic Gardening


Easiest Vegetables to Grow
1/26/2011 9:43:35 AM
By Barbara Pleasant
Tags: vegetables, garden, first garden

Easiest Vegetables to Grow AOEI’m ready to garden! What are the best crops for me to grow in my first garden?

To guarantee the success of your first garden, stick with the easy vegetables listed here, which grow well in minimally improved soil. (Over time, you can improve your soil by adding organic fertilizers and compost.)

Begin planting your first garden in early spring, about four weeks before your average last frost. Locate information this information in Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average Last Spring Frost Date.

In early spring, kick off the season with these easy-to-grow vegetables and herbs:

* Salad mix, aka mesclun, is a seed blend of lettuces and other salad-worthy greens. Buy two packets — one that’s mostly lettuce and another that includes mustards, kales or escaroles so you can learn how all these greens grow. Sow small patches of each mix, and then plant a little more a few weeks later. Save your leftover seed in the fridge and plant it in late summer for a lush fall crop.
* Perennial herbs such as thyme and sage are easy to grow, and they come back each year. Purchase starts, which are grown from cuttings of superior varieties.
* Potatoes grow from sprouting spuds, and you can grow only one or two plants and get good yields. In your first garden, try planting a few small, organic potatoes purchased at the store.

In late spring, plant these vegetables after your last frost has passed:

* Bush or pole beans (collectively called green beans) are a top crop for any first garden because they adapt to a wide range of soil types.
* Tomatoes are a garden favorite, but for your first year I suggest starting with only two types — a cherry, such as ‘Sweet 100’ or ‘Sun Gold,’ and a medium-sized slicing tomato, such as ‘Early Girl.’ Wait until next year, when your soil is better and you have some experience, to try large-fruited heirlooms.
* Summer squash can be phenomenally productive, but put in at least three plants to ensure good pollination and fruit set.

In late summer, plant more mesclun and fill other vacant space with arugula or Japanese turnips — two underappreciated gourmet vegetables that will grow like gangbusters until cold weather brings your first garden to a close. Good luck!

— Barbara Pleasant , contributing editor


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Plant a Salad Garden in Fall

Plant a Salad Garden in Fall
Plant a Salad Garden in Fall

Barbara Pleasant

Easy to grow – and beautiful to boot – salad gardens are easy to love. Lettuce and other salad makings are among the first crops to plant in spring, yet their fondness for cool weather also makes them great encore crops for fall. As a self-confessed salad addict, I often spend $5 a week on ready-to-eat gourmet greens when I can’t get them from my garden – reason enough to work up a little sweat plant-ing a second season salad garden.

It’s a simple project that leads to fast rewards. Clear off a patch of ground in a spot that’s convenient to water, sow some seeds, and a fall salad patch will start spewing out tasty tidbits in only a few weeks.
What to Grow?

The major player in any salad garden is lettuce (Lactuca sativa), which comes in an amazing array of colors and textures. If you have partially used seed packets of lettuce leftover from spring, start with those varieties, because shard-shaped lettuce seeds often lose viability after only a year. Did your spring crop get tall and bitter before you could eat it all? Some of the frilliest lettuce varieties can’t wait to bolt when days are getting longer and warmer in spring, but in the fall garden they hold much longer. If you need to buy lettuce seeds, starting with a mixture of varieties is an effortless way to turn your salad garden into a tapestry of colors and textures. All the mail-order seed companies (See “The Seeds You Need,” Page 58) sell various lettuce blends, often called mesclun, that include a palette of leaf colors and forms.

Spinach makes a great fall salad green, too, and in many climates fall-sown spinach can be left in the garden until spring, when the cold-ravaged plants bounce back with amazing energy. Fast-growing radishes also plump up quickly when grown in the fall, and autumn is the best season to grow buttery-tasting baby beet greens. Scallions are a bit slow to grow from seeds, but you can be assured of a ready supply of tender green onions if you buy a slender bunch with roots at the supermarket, trim the tops back by half their length, and stick them into moist soil. See “Fall Garden Standouts” on Page 57 for even more great greens for your second season salad garden. Finally, stud your patch with a few fast-growing annual herbs including dill, cilantro and chervil, which sprout and grow quickly enough to provide flavorful snippets for the salad bowl.
Ready, Set, Grow!

All the books say that salad crops need full sun, but up to a half day of shade is beneficial when you’re planting in warm, late summer soil. If the best site you have bakes in the September sun, install a shade screen on the west side of your salad patch. A short length of snow fencing or a piece of burlap attached to stakes will do the trick.

Lettuce and other salad greens have shallow roots, so soil preparation is a simple matter of clearing the space of weeds and withered plants, working in a 2-inch deep blanket of compost, and then mixing in an organic fertilizer at the rate given on the label. Spinach is a heavier feeder than other greens, so be generous with the plant food when preparing its fall home.

Some say that lettuce seeds need light to germinate, but the light that comes through a one-eighth-inch layer of soil will coax the seeds to life quite nicely. The easiest way to sow the seeds is to scatter them on the surface of a prepared bed, barely cover them with soil, and then pat the surface lightly with your hand. If you have clay soil that tends to form a crust over germinating seeds, cover the seeds with potting soil or compost instead of garden soil. Plant other salad garden crops about a quarter inch deep and at least half an inch apart.

Early fall is often a dry season, and salad greens thrive on moisture, so keeping the soil constantly moist is an ongoing challenge. Immediately after planting, the easiest way to keep the seeded bed from drying out at midday is to cover it with an old blanket or cardboard box on sunny days. Once the seedlings are up and growing, keep a watering can stationed at the edge of your salad patch, and give your babies a cool drink first thing every morning and again just before sunset.

If you think of leaves as solar panels, you’ll understand why thinning plants so that leaves of adjoining plants don’t overlap is so important. Begin thinning your salad patch as soon as the seeds sprout, and continue to pull up (and eat) crowded babies every few days. Thoughtful thinning also deters slugs, one of the few pests that bother lettuce and other leafy greens. Unlike large “garden” slugs, which are best trapped with shallow dishes of beer, lettuce slugs tend to be so small and numerous that it’s more practical to drench plants with cold, caffeinated coffee or tea at night, when the slimers are active. Caffeine is a neurotoxin that makes slugs writhe to death, but you must get it on them for it to work.

The key to enjoying crisp salad greens is to harvest them early in the day, when the leaves are plumped with water. You can harvest lettuce or mixed salad greens by pulling whole plants, picking individual leaves, or using scissors or a sharp knife to gather handfuls of baby greens. As long as you cut them off one inch above the soil line, the crowns left behind will quickly produce a new flush of leaves. Gather spinach, baby herbs and arugula by pinching off perfect leaves.

Don’t worry if an early freeze sneaks up while your salad patch is in full bore. Until the cold weather passes, throw an old blanket over the plants or cover them with a cardboard box held in place with stones or bricks. With protection, your salad veggies can easily survive several nights in the mid-20s. With luck, you might even have fresh salad greens for your Thanksgiving table. /G

– Award-winning garden writer Barbara Pleasant’s newest book is The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual: Essential Know-How for Keeping (Not Killing!) More Than 160 Indoor Plants. E-mail your questions or suggestions for our Sow Hoe department to SowHoe@Grit.com.
The Seeds You Need

The seed racks disappear from many garden centers by midsummer, so you may need to order seeds from a mail-order company. Don’t worry about the wait, because most mail-order companies process and ship orders with remarkable speed. If you already have a favorite mail-order seed company, chances are good that they can provide the seeds you need. The sources listed here offer collections that make choosing seeds for your fall salad patch less confusing.

Kitchen Garden Seeds (CT), 860-567-6086, www.kitchengardenseeds.com. The 'Fall Salad Garden' collection includes packets of 7 great fall salad crops, including a painterly lettuce blend.

Nichols Garden Nursery (OR), 800-422-3985, www.nicholsgardennursery.com; The “Eclectic Eleven” is an economical blend of almost a dozen assorted salad greens.

The Cook’s Garden (PA), 800-457-9703, www.cooksgarden.com. The “Salad Fresh Mesclun Cutting Mix” collection includes six excellent salad greens, including arugula and two red and green lettuce.



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Foods that will save your life no matter what

Foods that will save your life no matter what

Foods that will save your life no matter what
Written by on 25 March 2011

Are you half-dead and on the way down to the dirt? Poisoned and polluted from a lifetime of industrial living? If you eat the average North American diet you are a high candidate for Heart Disease, Cancer, and diabetes.

If you take a steady flow of pharmaceuticals that you can triple your rate of decline down to worm food. Live in a City? Smoke a pack a day? Good as dead.

So how can you come back from the brink?

Mother Nature has the cure.

First thing is first: Go to a health food store and buy Cayenne Pepper and Yellow Turmeric. 1 tea spoon of Cayenne and 1 Table spoon of Turmeric per day to start. Mix them in Olive oil in a glass shooter and start your day out that way. Increase as your tolerance goes up. You just started the most powerful cocktail on the menu. Cayenne and Turmeric are huge in restoring balances in the body and fighting inflammation.

Next we need to get some green into you, welcome to Chlorophyll, buy it in the bottle since 90% of vegetables have very little nutrients in them.
What is chlorophyll?

Chlorophyll is actually responsible for the green pigmentation in plants. What does chlorophyll do? Chlorophyll is what absorbs energy from the sun to facilitate photosynthesis in plants. Chlorophyll to plants is like blood to humans. It is important in many plant metabolic functions such as growth and respiration.

Interestingly, chlorophyll is chemically similar in composition to that of human blood, except that the central atom in chlorophyll is magnesium, while iron is central in human blood. This, and the fact that chlorophyll is central in plan metabolism, had prompted scientists to find out if chlorophyll can offer similar benefits to humans. A number of chlorophyll researches have been focused on finding out the potential chlorophyll health benefits in humans.
Health Benefits of Chlorophyll

True enough, chlorophyll has been seen to provide health benefits to those who take them. It has anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. Here are some of the known chlorophyll benefits:

• It has been seen to help in the growth and repair of tissues.

• Chlorophyll helps in neutralizing the pollution that we breathe in and intake everyday – a good supplement for smokers

• It efficiently delivers magnesium and helps the blood in carrying the much needed oxygen to all cells and tissues.

• It is also found to be useful in assimilating and chelating calcium and other heavy minerals.

• It had been seen to have a good potential in stimulating red blood cells to improve oxygen supply.

• Along with other vitamins such as A, C and E, chlorophyll has been seen to help neutralize free radicals that do damage to healthy cells.

• Chlorophyll is also an effective deodorizer to reduce bad breath, urine, fecal waste, and body odor.

• It may reduce the ability of carcinogens to bind with the DNA in different major organs in the body.

• Chlorophyll may be useful in treating calcium oxalate stone ailments

• It possesses some anti-atherogenic activity as well.

• It can be used to treat infected wounds naturally.

• These are only a few of the multitude benefits that chlorophyll can do to the body.

• It has antimutagenic and anti-carcinogenic properties so that it may be helpful in protecting your body against toxins and in reducing drug side effects.

Now that we have you on Cayenne, Turmeric and Chlorophyll you should be swinging away from an acidic body to a neutral and then slightly Alkaline balance. All disease produces acidosis. Biological death is total acidosis.

Changing the water content and quality inside your cells will take months. Stay on the program. Drink Green tea, lots of it. Cut down the coffee to 1-2 cups a day. Don’t stop smoking… cut back.

Chocolate. Eat as much 80% Cocao as you can. (Easier said than done.)

Get raw cacao beans or chips and chomp away until you get high.

We live in a nutritional desert full of empty but deadly calories. We need good food and lots of it. If you have an insatiable craving it means you need something. Modern chemicals trick us into sucking back deadly amounts of soft drinks, coffee drinks and alcohol to satisfy cravings. Then they pollute use with empty garbage food so we will go back and buy more stimulants.

Seaweed. Kelp, Dulse. If it’s greenish brown and taste salty and it comes from the ocean it will be good for you.In fact it may be the most mineral packing food on the planet.

Eat enough Kelp or seaweed and you can toss out those expensive vitamins you buy. East coast Canadian Dulse is the best. But try all kinds.

I hear you say that you just sucked in a big lung full of radioactive smoke from a Japanese nuclear meltdown. No problem. All that seaweed and kelp is rich in iodine. Now add Artichokes and asparagus to the mix.

Shroom it up.

A grizzly bear will fight for his patch of white pine mushrooms even if a stark raving mad band of drunken hobbits are trying to skin him. He’ll fight to the death… for the mighty Mushroom.

Shiitake, Matsutake, Chantrel,… here’s the rule. As long as it is not poisonous then it is good for you. Some mushrooms cook up as well as a nice steak and have a heavy texture. Pine mushrooms will make you an Adonis.
So there you go. Cayenne and Turmeric. Chlorophyll. Cocoa and Seaweed. Green Tea and Mushrooms. Ad to these things the power of intention and you are on the way to recovery. If you are on the drugs then think of them as good. Pour your positive intent into all things. Yes even the nasty pharmaceuticals. Focus your energy and turn bad to good.


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